It is a frustrating experience for your refrigerator to just stop cooling. A GE refrigerator is an excellent kitchen appliance, but it does occasionally malfunction. One of the more common problems is when the freezer works normally but the fridge does not cool. Fortunately, this problem is something you can resolve by yourself when it occurs. If your GE fridge stops cooling but the freezer works, a broken door hinge is most likely what the issue may be.
Frozen coils or a faulty evaporator fan are two other possible causes. In the vast majority of cases, you can resolve the issue without the assistance of a professional. It is a do-it-yourself kind of problem unless you are in a haste and will need the assistance of a technician to help sort out this issue.
This blog entry will go over the most common reasons why your GE refrigerator isn’t cooling even though the freezer is working properly. We’ll also go over how to solve a few of these issues at home. Continue reading to find out more! leave a comment at the end and tell us how this tutorial assists you in resolving this issue.
The Most Common Causes The GE Fridge Isn’t Cooling
Although the function of the refrigerator is relatively simple, the fridge relies on many parts to maintain a proper temperature.
The most common causes of this problem in GE refrigerators are:
- Condensation in excess
- Unusual noises due to overheating
Many of the issues stem from problems with the cooling system, which can be attributed to a variety of factors.
The best way to figure out what’s wrong with your GE refrigerator is to inspect each component one by one (as detailed below).
Continue reading to learn about the most likely causes of your GE refrigerator not cooling.
The GE Refrigerator Door Gasket Is Inadequate
For your refrigerator to be cool, you need the fridge door to be tightly close. By forming a seal, the door gasket keeps the temperature of your refrigerator stable.
If it slips, the door will not seal properly, allowing cold air to enter.
Misalignment causes many door gaskets to fail.
You can quickly fix this problem by gently pressing the gasket back into place with your finger or a tool.
Frosted Over GE Refrigerator Evaporator Coils
Your GE refrigerator’s defrost assembly is activated several times per day to remove any frost that has formed on the evaporator coils.
If the defrost heater assembly fails, ice will build up on the coils, preventing air from passing through and cooling your refrigerator.
The most common cause of this issue is a faulty defrost unit.
To determine which component is faulty, have a licensed servicer inspect the defrost thermostat, timer, and control board.
The GE Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor has failed.
The evaporator fan motor may have failed if the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is warm. While evaporator fan motors have a long service life, if their fan blade becomes stuck and unable to rotate, they will wear out.
Detach the fan wires if the blades rotate when you turn them with your hand but the fan does not work. Then, using a digital or analog multimeter, check the motor windings for continuity.
If there is no continuity, the winding is faulty, and the fan motor assembly must be replaced. Typically, four screws hold the fan in place. Remove these screws and replace the part with an exact match to repair it.
The GE Refrigerator Start Relay has failed.
The compressor starts with the help of a start relay and a start winding.
When the starter relay fails, the compressor malfunctions, resulting in problems with your GE appliance, such as a warm fridge with a cold freezer.
Check for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets with a multimeter to determine whether the start relay is faulty.
If there is no start relay, replace it. If the start relay emits a burned odor, it should be replaced as soon as possible.
Examine the metal part with a multimeter before removing the start relay. If the relay fails the test, follow the instructions below to replace it.
- Unplug the refrigerator.
- Remove the access pad with a 1/4 in. (.635 cm.) screwdriver.
- Remove the container for the relay start.
- Remove the overload.
- Take out the faulty relay.
- Connect the cables to the replacement.
- Join the overload.
- Put the start relay and the overload in their proper places.
- Use the overload box to secure them.
The GE Refrigerator Air Inlet Damper Is Broken
The air inlet damper on your GE refrigerator regulates cool airflow through the freezer and food compartments.
If the damper fails or becomes clogged, the cool air may not flow properly, and your refrigerator may not get enough cool air.
Inspect the damper to ensure that it is opening and closing properly.
If it isn’t, contact a professional to replace it.
But what if the evaporator fan is running and the damper door is open, but no air is coming out? In that case, the evaporator may become frosted.
Your GE Refrigerator’s Defrost Thermostat Has Failed
The defrost system is activated for a few minutes to remove any ice that has formed on the evaporator coils, as previously stated.
The defrost thermostat must detect that the coils are sufficiently chilled for this to work properly.
If the thermostat is broken, it won’t be able to detect the temperature of the coils, preventing the defrost device from working. If the defroster is turned off, ice will build up on the coils, preventing air from passing through and cooling the fridge. A multimeter can be used to check the defrost thermostat for continuity.
Your GE Refrigerator’s Temperature Control Board has failed.
The temperature control board in your GE refrigerator supplies voltage to the fan motors and compressor.
When there is a problem, the board may keep your freezer at the proper temperature but not your fridge.
Because other issues could be causing the same symptom, a professional’s knowledge is required for a successful diagnosis.
If the board is faulty, repair it using an approved replacement component and the procedures outlined below.
- Turn off the water and electricity.
- Disconnect the water heater’s supply line.
- Remove the screws that hold the refrigerator’s bottom service panel in place.
- Using a screwdriver, remove the temperature control board cover.
- Take out the wires.
- Remove the screws and locking loops that hold the control board in place.
- Remove the broken control panel.
- Replace the temperature regulation board and lock it in place with the locking clips.
- Reinstall the mounting screws if necessary.
- Connect the wires.
- Reinstall the covers.